Those three adjectives describe my very favorite sort of restaurants: for example, the Kerbey Lane Cafe or Magnolia Cafe in Austin, the Big Kitchen in San Diego, or the Diner of Los Gatos (affectionately known as “LGD” to frequent visitors).
They’re independent because they are locally owned and operated, usually run by people who are passionate about the service they’re providing. You don’t find the repetitious, bland corporate meals like you find elsewhere on the dining scene. Typically, these restaurants start out as a small affair (often in a college area) and “grow up” along with the owners, developing and blossoming over time as the proprietors learn what works. The customers often feel like they’re a part of the operation, too—feedback from customers is often rapidly incorporated into the business, without the need for cumbersome “customer comment” cards and sweepstakes that you are entered into for answering a phone survey. Because the distance between the customer and the owner is so short, there’s no need for any of that overhead.
Eclectic implies variety, and that’s what you’ll usually find. It also implies some level of unexpectedness: conjunctions of foods that are definitely non-traditional, but oh so good. For example, the Magnolia Cafe offers traditional pasta alfredo alongside more unusual dishes like a “Tropical Turkey Taco.” Kerbey Lane has Chipotle Cream Pasta next to Hummus and Tabbouleh, an unusual pairing that you won’t find in a more traditional, single-styled eatery.
Finally, unpretentious. And, by “unpretentious,” I mean “not snooty.” There are a number of local restaurants that are independent and eclectic, but think so much of themselves that they charge $26 for a salad and carry 35 varieties of imported beer. By unpretentious, I mean that these little restaurants aren’t aiming to be the gourmand’s favorite hideaway, but are instead simply trying to provide a good meal at a good price.
Sadly, while these sorts of restaurants can be found all over in Austin and environs, they are sadly lacking here in the San Francisco Bay area, where I currently live. Most of the restaurants here are either completely pretentious or just another chain restaurant. So I ask you, gentle reader, do you understand where I’m coming from? Do you feel my need? Tell me, what is your favorite little restaurant!
Go to the store and get some steak. It doesn’t have to be great steak, because you’re going to cook the heck out of it, but you should have about 2 pounds’ worth of beef once you’ve trimmed away the bones and the excess fat. No, don’t trim away all the fat, silly; that’s where God put the flavor, and you’ll want some of that later on. Get out your Wusthof™ Classic Hollow-Ground Santoku
